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Post by Jenni on May 3, 2013 8:17:37 GMT -5
That makes sense r4f. It should be an interesting project. We'll see if I can get it done.
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Post by dawnh on May 3, 2013 13:02:57 GMT -5
I like r4f's idea and no I didn't have anything on the supports themselves it was just a quickie done job to add something to hold heat/keep it cooler. That trailer was only a 2 foot shortwall and the saddlerack was permanent so took up all that small corner. You could step in change clothes or get up on the gooseneck to sleep it wasn't a camper by any means. But it worked for me for many many years. Hindsight shoulda kept it switched to the one I have now which is a 6 foot shorwall love the trailer and extra room, but switched cuz thought my niece would keep riding and want to go camping with us. She didn't too busy with kid activities but it's fine if Tim ever get around to remodeling the interior some it will be even nicer. I probably should just start doign it myself...would get done faster cuz as soon as I did it would bug him totally as I wouldn't be "doing it right" and then HE would do it LOLOL  |
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Post by Marci on May 3, 2013 16:29:03 GMT -5
I am watching this closely. I want to buy a van and use it for camping so not sure if i will get one already set up or if I make one myself, but insulation will be needed. Even if its just for road noise. I remember how bad my hubby's van was on noise in the back. It was hard to talk but then he had ladders in a rack on top too.
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Post by Idaho Linda on May 4, 2013 11:24:54 GMT -5
If you are in a high humidity area, you might want to put a vapor barrier (ie, 6 ml plastic sheets) between the metal and the insulation, making sure that all seams are taped. The goal would be to keep water vapor away from the cold metal, so it can't condense. I am thinking that the plastic should only be over the ceiling part, with it extending loosely down the sides, under the insulation. That way, if there IS some condensation, the water could run down the metal sides, under the insulation. You don't want to trap water against the metal ceiling.
As you may have guessed, I live in a house with cathedral ceilings and a metal roof. I have had a horrible time with condensation, especially on the north side roof. When it was hot in the summer, the north roof was cooler and water would condense and eventually make its way to soak into my ceiling tile. The final solution--after all the vapor barriers, etc., was to use portable air conditioners to keep the humidity low for a month or so during the summer. If you are camped where there is a power outlet, that could be an option for you as well.
When you are insulating a metal roof, you need to keep the humidity inside as low as possible--and make sure you have good circulation (when you can) to keep that moisture out of there. Some people use those drying crystals during storage, I'm sure they would help. You don't want rust starting under the insulation and you sure don't want mold and mildew. Insulation CAN be a two-edged sword.
If you live where you have high humidity, you might even want to have a removable chunk of insulation that you could take out when appropriate to get air flow through there--like the venting in a house roof.
Life is easier in the Arizona desert--just put in insulation because there isn't any humidity to cause problems.....
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Post by Jenni on May 6, 2013 8:07:44 GMT -5
I had vapor barrier installed in the horse shed to prevent condensation from dripping on the hay. They mistakenly put it under the north side lean to as well and the birds are making a mess out of it already. I had asked my husband if it would work in the trailer. Maybe I can take it down from there and reuse it in the trailer.
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Post by Idaho Linda on May 6, 2013 10:28:35 GMT -5
You've got it! You need to keep warm, moist air away from cold metal if you don't want condensation. And then you need to vent that space to minimize rust and let the condensation (which will still happen, to a lesser extent) escape.
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